As with any food, when it comes to olive oil you and I always look for top quality. It is essential to know when a product is in better or poorer condition, but the fact is that with liquid gold it is not always easy to find its defects. Today I’ll try and help you simplify the procedure:

DAMP AND MOLDY

Among defects, the smell of mold is characteristic and easy to detect, as it is shared by many types of food. When the presence of this defect is strong the smell is very unpleasant.

There are two main reasons for this problem:

• The proliferation of fungi and yeast in the olive oil.
• Poor selection of olives before crushing them to draw oil. This defect is due to damaged olives or those gathered off the ground.
• Bacteria found in the oil mill that end up in the oil as a result of the extraction process.

STALE

This defect is common in all fatty foods containing a high lipid content. As far as olive oil is concerned, oil can go stale when it is exposed to oxygen, which causes oxidation. It is also caused by light photons constantly hitting the oil when it is exposed to the light.

This is why our bottles at Carapelli are dark. Also, glass is less porous than plastic, so it slows down the oxidation process (provided the bottle is kept closed).

SOUR

This defect appears when the olives gathered in the harvest are stored for too long before crushing them to extract the oil. Why does this happen? Not crushing the olives for oil just a few hours after they are harvested means that they will start fermenting, and as a result ethanol, acetic acid and ethyl acetate appear.

These compounds, during the crushing process, seep into the olive oil, causing a sour, vinegary taste. The end result will always be unpleasant for the senses.

FUSTY

For me, as a consumer, this is the hardest defect to detect, because the aroma is not as unpleasant as in the other defects found in olive oil. To be able to detect fustiness and distinguish it from the other defects, you need to train your smell and taste memory.

This defect occurs when harvested olives are stored incorrectly and for a longer period than advisable. This causes the olives to ferment without oxygen, and fustiness shows up in the oil extraction process.

I think you would agree with me if I said that the food you eat is the first way to take care of your health. Over the last few months I have written at length about the benefits of the Mediterranean diet. Today, however, I will focus on a drink that originated in the tropics, specifically in Latin America. The fact is that the typical ingredients you can find in the Mediterranean basin are perfect for these types of shakes, starting with extra virgin olive oil.

When we mention smoothies we’re talking about creamy shakes prepared with fruit, vegetables, juices and dairy products. The list of combinations is as long as the list of individual tastes throughout this planet of ours.

The first time I heard of smoothies was in the late 1960s, when they came into fashion in the United States. As I just said, the tradition originated in Latin America, but the US seems to hugely amplify the influence of anything it touches.

WHAT DOES EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL ADD TO A SMOOTHIE?

You know I’ve written about the versatility and properties of extra virgin olive oil in other posts. What I’ll say here further attests to its versatility, because our liquid gold blends perfectly in such a refreshing drink.

Two tablespoons of EVOO is the recommended dose to give your smoothies that nice Mediterranean touch that we all love. You will notice it on your palate because it boosts the flavor of the ingredients you use and smoothens the texture of the drink itself.

And your body will notice its many benefits. The anti-oxidants, vitamins and benefits for blood circulation will enhance the properties of the fruits and/or vegetables you use in your smoothies.

From north to south. From east to west. From heavily populated cities to sparsely inhabited villages. Endless pages are needed to write the history of Italy. So substantial, century after century, that you’ll rarely find anything frivolous in it. From architecture to painting, passing through astronomy and of course gastronomy. That’s what I’ll focus on today. But first let’s add a bit of context.

FROM THE ROMAN EMPIRE TO THE DISCOVERY OF AMERICA

Washed by the waters of the Mediterranean, present-day Italy has been influenced over the millennia not only by the culinary traditions of the Roman Empire, but also by classic Greece and from merchants from northern Africa, plus touches from the Middle East, all adding up in its recipes. Those were the foundations of the Italian cuisine known to us today.

CITIES: THE PLACES WHERE ITALIAN DISHES ARE MOSTLY BORN

John Dickie, a historian specializing in Italy, in his book Delizia! The epic history of Italians and their food, says that the large cities of Italy have nurtured this tradition. “Italian food is city food. For a thousand years, Italy’s cities have been magnets for everything that makes for great eating: ingredients, talent, money, and power. Telling the story of Italian food means telling the story of city dwellers: from the boisterous medieval flea markets of Milan to the Renaissance salons of Ferrara, from the street stalls of 19th century Naples to the bustling trattorias of postwar Rome,” writes the author.

In the tribute to socialization and family that one finds in Italian cuisine, the Renaissance represents the mature stage of Italian gastronomy. Never breaking with the past. Starting in the Renaissance is when the importance of this cuisine is confirmed. Cooks gained recognition, recipe books were compiled, and they spent time refining their own dishes.

TRAVELLING ACROSS ITALY DISH BY DISH

Italian cuisine has its master lines, a common denominator. Italy, which was reunited in the later 19th century, saw how each region added different nuances and ingredients to the land that since the fall of the Roman Empire had become a series of isolated territories. This has added to the variety of such a rich cuisine.

In the central part of the Italian peninsula, right where Tuscany is located, is where we find most of the dishes that people throughout the world associate with Italy. Extra virgin olive oil takes center stage, alongside cold cuts and a large variety of meats. And of course the elaborate pasta dishes, from Tuscan ‘pici’ to the ‘spaghetti alla chitarra’ of the Abruzzi.

Travelling south you will find the Italian dish par excellence: pizza. It is so popular nowadays, but there was a time when it was the food of the needy. This zone is probably the one that contributes the recipes that have travelled farthest on our planet: simple, straightforward flavor is of the essence. It’s always a winner. Pasta is drier in this region, and then there are vegetables, seafood, cheeses… all these ingredients form a recipe for success.

North of Tuscany there are different traditions. Here we find carpaccio, risotto, different soups, balsamic vinegar from Modena… And of course we’ll always find the reliability of extra virgin olive oil and tomatoes.

I cannot finish without mentioning the cuisine of Sardinia. It is the least known outside Italy and it is in turn the most peculiar in Italy, due to the influence of the ancient Crown of Aragon, though of course we must never neglect the Italian roots that are also present.

It was a pleasure to accompany you on this short tour of Italian cuisine. I feel that in every dish you will find not only beauty but also plenty of history and deeper meaning. I feel the need to respect and admire those who in the past, in circumstances far removed from those of the present, created these wonders for our palate. For all those who have loved and still love Italian cuisine: Buon appetito!

Extra virgin olive oil is the main pillar of the Mediterranean diet and we should take care of it the way it deserves. Such a valuable product is worth our attention both when conserving it and when using it for cooking. Today I’ll share a few tips to make your oil last longer in optimal condition and to allow you to make the most of all its flavor.

You probably use extra virgin olive oil on a daily basis, just like me. Over the years I have learned to take care of little details that are often neglected in day-to-day use. Reading and listening to advice–anything is welcome when it comes to taking care of our liquid gold so as not to make any mistakes when using, consuming and conserving it.

The first mistake is crystal clear: cooking with anything other than extra virgin olive oil. The notion that extra virgin oil, being of higher quality, should only be consumed uncooked is widespread. But EVOO is perfect for cooking for a number of reasons. For instance, it boosts the flavor of foods and makes them conserve their properties much better–and that in itself is a health benefit.

HOW TO COOK WITH OLIVE OIL

When cooking with olive oil there are a number of very common mistakes that we often make. One of them is pouring some oil on a cold frying pan when we are going to prepare something grilled. Here we’ll see that the oil starts smoking, meaning that it’s burning, and you surely won’t get the benefits you could from it.

What’s the solution? Very simple: pour the oil on when the frying pan is already hot or pour it on the food we are about to put in the pan.

Another mistake is frying with very little oil. Contrary to what many think, food must be fully submerged in the hot oil to cook the fat part correctly. And some food might stick to the frying pan if you err on the stingy side.

NEVER GET RID OF OIL BY POURING IT DOWN THE DRAIN

My dear friend, because of my moral commitment to nature and what it gives us as human beings, take my word for what I am about to tell you. Never pour the oil you are no longer going to use down the drain. Sift it into a jar and take it to a local waste facility to avoid polluting and so that it can be recycled into soap, detergent or even bio fuel.

THE BOTTLE SIZE DOES MATTER

The next mistake I have often made is that of not buying the right sized bottle (or can) according to how fast I am going to use the oil. I’ll explain this. Before buying you should think of how long the product is going to be in use.

If you are not going to consume a large amount of oil over a short period, then you should buy smaller bottles. Why is this? As you use up the oil in the bottle, air takes up the space previously filled by our liquid gold. Oxygen speeds up the oil’s deterioration. The larger the space taken up by oxygen, the greater the deterioration of the oil. This is why glass is better than plastic, because it lets less oxygen get in.

Now what are the most prominent varieties of olive in Spain?

• Arbequina: this type of olive provides a delicate oil which is slightly sweet and fruity. Depending on when the olives are harvested, the taste may vary and incorporate green notes. It’ is fruitier and more balanced when harvested early.
• Hojiblanca: a highly appreciated olive due to its sweet initial flavor. This blends with the bitterness and the pleasant spicy flavor of green fruits. The aftertaste hints at almonds.
• Picual: this is a complex olive. The characteristic fig flavor only shows when the olives are ripe. There is a bitter, spicy touch at the end, together with its intense aroma. The oil is more intense and persistent with an early harvest.
• Cornicabra: your palate will grasp the aroma and taste of ripe fruit, spicy and with fresh and slightly bitter touches.
• Picudo: : the initial taste is fresh and fruity, followed by an aftertaste of almonds, with touches of apple and a sweet aroma. This variety grows in Cordoba.
• Verdial: the oil extracted from these olives is slightly bitter and spicy, but also fruity and sweet.
• Manzanilla: this variety is also known as cacereña. The oil has an aroma of herbs and ripe fruit, with a spicy, bitter taste. This is definitely a full-bodied oil.

OLIVES OUTSIDE ITALY AND SPAIN

The Mediterranean basin rises up on maps as the cradle that cherishes and protects my beloved olive groves. In all of its territories, to a lesser or greater extent, olive trees rise up, having served as an important symbol in many cultures.

For instance, in classic Greek mythology, the goddess Athene was behind the growth of the first olive tree in Athens. In Greece, olive trees are a symbol of peace, prosperity, resurrection and hope. The Greeks have historically been salient producers of olive oil with their various varieties of olive, such as koroneiki, tsunati, mastoidis and athinolia.

And we must not forget countries such as Portugal and Tunisia, which are important producers and have their own typical varieties of olives.

In any event, I’m feeling the urge to cut some slices of bread and pouring oil from each and every one of the varieties that these olives yield on them. I’ll let this liquid gold caress my palate and throat, close my eyes and take in the different flavors and nuances. Try it. You’ll like it!

Creativity on a dish is an invitation for the senses. It is part of culinary enjoyment: it raises your expectations before taking choice morsels to your mouth. For me it is of the utmost importance when entertaining at home. Not only because of the distinct appearance of a well presented dish, but because your guests know there is a whole lot of love and dedication in the way food is laid out on the dish. In short, it is a gift.

In these short texts I have already shared with you some of my techniques for dressing the table or how to take snapshots in pure foodie style. Today I will write about the art of presenting food on dishes. How to make the white canvas of an empty plate into a beautiful and yet ephemeral work of art. The fact that it is short-lived adds to its charm.

Blank spaces would detract from your attention. You need to be able to identify and focus on the main food item. The first step is therefore making sure that the ingredients add up around the main ingredient.

The focal point is where we want our guests to look. In plates where the main ingredient is not something as obvious as a meat cut, for instance, you must consider how the dish flows. What does this mean? It means that your eye follows a certain direction to reach the focal point, there is a visual journey along the dish. Triangular compositions, zigzags, curves and diagonal layouts, among others, achieve this affect.

SEEKING BALANCE THROUGH THE BEST LAYOUT

When I speak of unity, by no way do I mean piling up everything. In other words, we don’t want a cluttered formation with the dressing and sauce piled up right by the fish. Everything must be balanced harmoniously. This is achieved through the layout of the food on the dish, also playing with texture and color.

Layout is something I’ll get into with greater detail later on–it is an art form in itself. Cross-cutting, with curved lines, horizontal, the rule of two thirds, scaled, asymmetric, triangular, rhythmical, symmetrical… There are many different approaches and I will provide details in forthcoming posts.

Another more complex approach is playing with a single color. Working around a single tone is a very powerful challenge. And you must bear in mind whether the color of the dish itself contrasts with that of the ingredients.

A VERTICAL LAYOUT

It’s funny how one of the approaches to laying out food on a dish leads me to Tuscany, specifically to San Gimignano. Here you can see what I mean:

Following this brief excursus (the love of Tuscany always pops up), it’s back to the kitchen. In dishes with a linear or horizontal layout this is always a highly elegant trick. We add volume by placing some of the ingredients standing up, so to say, something you can do with leaves, edible flowers or shoots. Use tongs to place these ingredients on the dish. It’s not always easy to do.

TEXTURES ARE IMPORTANT, AND NOT ONLY ON YOUR PALATE

It is very appealing to play around with textures. It is essential to make a recipe more palatable, but also when laying out the food on the dish. Remember, you do get to feed your eyes. Some ingredients are accompanied by a thick sauce, but why not draw out a tear on the dish? Or how about shaping it like a brush?

It’s a matter of taste, not of (poor) quality. Throughout my entire life I have run into people who believe that an olive oil with spicy and bitter nuances means that it is poor quality oil. No way. In my efforts to help them understand I’ve always explained it step by step.

WHAT MAKES AN EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL SPICY?

That spicy sensation you get in your mouth, especially in your throat, is more noticeable in recent oils, that is, those pressed in the latest campaign. The sensation is greater in oils made from olives that are still a bit green, not entirely ripe. Then there are olive varieties such as picual where the spiciness is even more noticeable due to the characteristics of those olives.

Just as with the spiciness, the bitterness is also due to the polyphenol components. Thus bitterness is an indicator both of quality and stability, because the useful life (before it starts to lose some of its properties) will be longer over time. Why is this? Because of the powerful natural anti-oxidants I mentioned. You get two for the price of one as far as functions are concerned: it’s good for the oil itself (the self-oxidation process starts later) and for your body.

I must add that the phenol components are not alone among the positives of extra virgin olive oil. These compounds are protected thanks to cold extraction. As I wrote on other occasions in this blog, the list of benefits of olive oil points to the sky (and beyond).

Bitterness and spiciness, even though they are part of the high quality of extra virgin olive oil, don’t necessary have to be pleasing to all people. There’s nothing wrong if you prefer a sweeter extra virgin oil extracted from fully ripe olives.

2. VINCI

On this trip the best vehicle is a car because of the convenience and the possibility of enjoying all the landscapes between one destination and the next. It’s time to leave the city and visit the hometown of a towering master: Leonardo da Vinci. The name of the town is none other than Vinci, 20 miles from Florence and with plenty of olive groves along the road.

There you can see the house where Leonardo was born or visit the Leonardino Museum at the castle of the Guidi Counts, where you can enjoy a spectacular view of Vinci and its surroundings.

3. PISTOIA

Italy’s Capital of Culture in 2017. Quite a cover letter, isn’t it? The Piazza del Duomo is the center around which all the important religious and political buildings are arranged. For instance, the Ospedale del Ceppo, with works by the sculptors Benedetto Buglioni and Giovanni della Robbia. In July they recreate Mediaeval times in the Giostra del Orso. You’re sure to find something unexpected.

9. VOLTERRA

Arriving at the Mediaeval city of Volterra will surely speed up your heartbeat, because there is a steep climb before entering its walls and accessing the citadel. The Palazzo dei Priori was the inspiration for the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence, such is its historical value.

Volterra is one of the culinary and artistic points of reference in Tuscany. It’s best that you go there with your eyes wide open and on an empty stomach.

10. CERTALDO

I’m most likely right in asserting that this is one of those towns that is little known by tourists. Certaldo Alto is the historical quarter of Certaldo, which you can access by funicular (an attraction in itself). Certaldo is the birthplace of Giovanni Boccaccio, the author of the Decameron.

You can walk through the streets flanked by Mediaeval buildings that are conserved intact, contemplate the frescos of the church of San Tommaso and Prospero, admire the handicrafts (especially the pottery), try the filetto di maiale arrosto al lardo di Colonnata con cipolle di Certaldo, and, especially, sit at a terrace and look on to the next stage in the route: San Gimignano.

14. MURLO

In the midst of a forest landscape we find Murlo, south of Siena. This town, deeply rooted in its Etruscan heritage, hasn’t changed much over the last seven centuries. If you happen to visit this town in May you can enjoy the ‘Fiesta in Collina,’ where you can try out artisan foods and admire the local handicrafts. It won’t be a very long stop but it is surely worth your while.

15. MONTALCINO

Montalcino is the home of one of the most famed red wines in Italy. I’ve always thought it’ a good idea to sit down to a nice glass of wine inside the Fortezza. But there is much more to this town than enjoying its wine or the local cuisine in s Mediaeval castle (Il Castello Banfi). You can visit San Salvatore, the Madonna del Soccorso, climb to the top of the walls and contemplate the landscape, visit the Piazza del Popolo or the Palazzo dei Priori.

19. CORTONA

‘Under the Tuscan Sun’ rises the town of Cortona. The setting for the famous movie, it is one of the most beautiful stops along the entire route. Not only for its streets but also the views of the Tuscan countryside. There are many legends to be told about this town. I cannot pick out what you have to visit here because the list would go on and on. There are certain pleasures that you need to discover on your own.

20. CASTIGLION FIORENTINO

Sadly for me, we are reaching the final destinations of this voyage. But there’s still a lot to see. The origin of Castiglion Fiorentino goes back to the 4th century A.D. Plenty of history in just a few square miles that will take you to different periods within Italy’s boundless history.

21. AREZZO

Arezzo is pure gold. Don’t get me wrong–the main industry is the crafting of jewels made of this precious metal. World War II was harsh on this town and many of the narrow alleys became large avenues following the reconstruction. Even so, the historical quarter retains plenty of its charm.

Going on with movie connections, in Arezzo ‘Life Is Beautiful’. Not only because of the motion picture, but also thanks to the antiques fair at the Piazza Grande, the basilica of St. Francis, the church of San Domenico, the view of the city from the Medicea Fortress and the Castle of the Medici.

22. MONTEFIORALLE

The second-to-last stop, assuming that Florence is a place with plenty to see not only at the beginning but at the end. I adore Montefioralle not only because of its beauty and history, but also because local families often welcome visitors and cook meals to share with them in their homes. Not a bad way to try out Tuscan cuisine with olive oil in the center, is it?

You can also walk through its streets. Some of them were part of a castle, because this town was a fortress in the times of continuous battles between Florence and Siena. It is s good place for enjoying nature thanks to the various hiking paths around the town.

23. FLORENCIA

Yes, Florence again. Florentia was the name in the times of the Roman Empire. As I stated above, it’s complicated to cover Florence in just one visit. The good think about this circular route is that it gives you a second chance. Time to check the list and see anything you missed or even go back to places that captivated you the first time around.

The list could have been longer and I’ve got to admit it was hard to leave out a few towns. Surely we have managed to discover many delightful places that are worth visiting. Altogether, a drive of around 400 miles. The distance can comfortably be covered in a few days of travel. Now if you do complete this trip, I’ll be looking forward to your remarks once you get back.

I adore Christmas. I love the fact that the family gets together to tell stories about the past year and disclose their wishes for the next 365 days. It’s a day of celebration in which everything has to be special. An essential secret to making everything different is how you decorate your table. This year I’m hosting at home and these are the ideas I’ve got in store.

In my book, elegance and decoration are to found in the chapter on Minimalism. Small, simple elements–nothing to do with baroque clutter. I will propose a simple yet stylish Christmas table. You surely know the saying less is more. That’s what we’re going for here.

STARTING WITH THE TABLECLOTH

Let’s go step by step though the process of setting the table. It is a long table and I will use a light colored tablecloth, preferably something in an earthy tone to enhance the warmth of the scenario and the moment. It will be canvas on which I’ll dab out this little work of art.

The first brush stroke comes with a decorative charger plate or under plate. Natural elements are always welcome in Christmas decorations and you won’t be missing them at our table, especially considering that we are celebrating these holidays in the Tuscan countryside.

The dishes of course will be among the best I have at home, and always in tune with the colors on the table. Here too I will go with light colors. It will be up to the napkins and other decorative elements to stand out. And of course the food on the dishes when served.

The dishes of course will be among the best I have at home, and always in tune with the colors on the table. Here too I will go with light colors. It will be up to the napkins and other decorative elements to stand out. And of course the food on the dishes when served.

Of course we must use the best cutlery and glassware. In my case I like them to have an ancient, rural touch, which fits perfectly with the natural elements and light colors without ceasing to be modern and sophisticated.

MINIMALISM AND NATURE ON THE CHRISTMAS TABLE

The center of the table is another key point of the decoration. There is a wide array of options here. As far as I’m concerned, I’ll stick to minimalism and nature.

But what do we place here? It’s got to be subtle, no overloading the table. We can combine a small number of different elements. I’ll use some star-shaped white figures and some natural dry pine cones. They combine brilliantly with the earth colored tablecloth.

And also with the green branches (usually from fir trees) that I will place along the center. Another option would be candles, if you want something even cozier. I recommend making them the same color as the napkins.

A trick I resort to when entertaining at home is putting a few cinnamon sticks on the table, because they give a special, natural scent to the environment and add the Christmas touch that I am so fond of.

Now of course we all like to enjoy the magic of Christmas Eve and Christmas day. Beautiful decoration makes these dates much more special, but always remember that the most important thing is being in great company.

P.S.: Some other day I’ll talk about tricks for serving your dishes.